Thanks for tuning into my 30th post! (Cue
applause, I know, what a momentous moment). I will write about a first night and
a last night from last week. May 19 was my new friend Shivalik’s first night in
Heidelberg. After traveling the whole day from Berlin (as I had done just a week
earlier), he was ready to watch the Champions League final between Bayern
München and Chelsea. Once he had brought his stuff to his room, Shivalik gave
me a call in the afternoon and we met up at Bismarckplatz (Bismarck square) in
the center of town. Accompanying him was Anas, a German student who is subletting
his room to Shivalik for the summer. Since it was Shivalik’s first time in
Heidelberg, we did the mandatory hike up to the Schloss (castle) and explored a bit more of the city before it was
time to head over to a bar called Belinni’s to watch the game. Normally, I
wouldn’t go into the details of how we got there, but here it’s worth
mentioning. Shivalik and Anas came to Bismarckplatz on bikes; I walked. Shivalik
and Anas had to pick up some paint on the way to the bar, so they recommended
that I take a bus and meet them at the surgical clinic, where my internship is.
While I was on the bus, it suddenly started raining cats and dogs and I worried
that something might happen to my two friends on their bikes. Once I arrived, I
saw that Shivalik and Anas weren’t there yet, so I went inside to use the
bathroom (Traveler’s tip: Hospitals are a great place to use the bathroom for
free). When I came out, I was shocked to see a giant puddle of white paint on
the ground with Anas standing right in the middle of it. They had made it all
the way to the clinic, only to drop a can of paint after they arrived. Anas
said that there wasn’t really anything we could do and recommended that
Shivalik and I simply go to the bar while he found someone in the hospital to
clean the paint.
We got to the bar all right and found decently good seats
close to the TV where we just had to crane our heads a little to the side to
see the screen. The people sitting next to us were celebrating a birthday
party. Funnily enough, Shivalik and I ended up talking quite a bit with a
student from the group named Niclas. I guess it wasn’t that atypical that we
chatted a bit with a stranger at a bar, but what I think what was atypical,
especially in Germany, was that he invited us to his friend’s birthday party
that was being held nearby in a dorm. Shivalik was interested, so I decided to
go too. At the party, we were able to chat with the rest of the group over some
beer and surprisingly, everyone, including the birthday boy, were all really
welcoming, even though we had only just met! I’m still not sure if it was pure
friendliness or the fact that everyone in the birthday group weren’t exactly
sober that led to this all happening. Either way, it was definitely a good
time!
Okay, on to the last night. May 23 was the last night of
Eckhart (I don’t know his first name) being a Fuchs at the fraternity I am living in. Fuchs literally means fox, but in this sense it means freshman. In
order to become a fully-fledged member of the Corps Rhenania, one must
participate in a Mensur (duel). A Fuchs from each of two different fraternities
face-off in what is called “academic fencing” surrounded by the members of
their respective fraternities looking on. Each Fuchs is allowed to wear protective gear up to the neck and then
only goggles to protect their eyes. Each member also has two people assisting
them: one looks on from the side and jumps in to end each round after a certain
number of sabre clashes and the second wipes down the sword in between rounds. During
the course of the Mensur, there are
thirty rounds in which the two Füchse
alternate between trying to strike the other on the forehead and blocking. It
was frightful, yet fascinating to watch, since at any moment a Fuchs could make an error and end up
with a nasty scar on his face as a result. It is fascinating to me that the
students here do this voluntarily. There are a lot of benefits if you can
survive the thirty rounds while remaining steadfast in place (like Eckhart and
his opponent both did, neither sustaining any injuries). You become a rightful Mitglieder of the fraternity, which
gives you the right to wear a special colored ribbon from your right shoulder
to your left waist and boss all the Füchse
around. Also, I guess because of the importance of the duel, all the onlookers
(who were also all male) dressed in suits for this event, so I managed to find
a cheap suit at C&A for the next Mensur.
Also, don’t worry Mom and Dad, I am not a Fuchs, but a Gast (guest)
of the fraternity, so I will not have anything more to do with these duels
other than watching.
You can find out more about academic fencing looking around
online if you need an excuse to procrastinate. I read that Mark Twain’s book A Tramp Abroad is based in part on his own
experience watching student fencing in Heidelberg. Maybe he met some members of
the Corps Rhenania back in the day. Anyway, that’s it for now. Danke furs Lesen und bis nächstes Mal!